Scott: Surfing, in any of its forms, is the closest thing to nirvana on Earth. You are immersed in a natural environment and all the challenges and joys that nature provides. Ocean water below; the open sky above and often an idyllic shoreline in view while you’re riding the wave. Many times I’ve shared the water with dolphins. Birds fly overhead. I used to keep track of my wave count. That is so me. Now I just let that happen. I’m more in tune with the ocean now; and the experience.
Years of holding my neck up on a surfboard have created some minor issues. Nothing that yoga can’t solve, but I’ve gone back to body-surfing, which is how it all started for me at Zuma Beach. Riding ocean waves naturally makes you keen to your environment. I’m a lifelong adrenaline junkie, but two bouts of Pneumonia and years of working as a singer in smokey venues have taken a toll on my lungs, so I now have to pass up some of the bigger days.
Ocean waters are easily contaminated by untreated run-off. Protecting our air and water is a no-brainer. Surfers know this. My companies Liquid Blue and Planet Blue, are both members of 1% for the Planet, and those in my tribe are all active environmentalists.