Scott: Surfing, in any of its forms, is the closest thing to nirvana on Earth. You are immersed in a natural environment and all the challenges and joys that nature provides. Ocean water below; the open sky above and often an idyllic shoreline in view while you’re riding the wave. Many times I’ve shared the water with dolphins. Birds fly overhead. I used to keep track of my wave count. That is so me. Getting a great workout was imperative. Now I just let that happen and don’t worry about. I’m more in tune with the ocean now; and the experience. Years of holding my neck up have created some minor issues. Nothing that yoga can’t solve but I’ve also gone back to body-surfing, which is where it all started for me at Zuma Beach. Riding ocean waves naturally makes you keen to your environment. Ocean waters are easily contaminated by untreated run-off. Protecting our air and water in a no-brainer. Surfers know this at a much higher percentage than the general public.